Mae Sot: the border city

In what has become an unplanned, accidental tradition (if that words is applicable to something that happens just twice) I packed my bag and decided to spend the last Christmas in a small village in the border between Thailand and Myanmar. The previous year the chosen one was Sangkhlaburi; this year I went further north to one of the main land passes between both countries: Mae Sot. Technically Mae Sot is the last town within Thailand territory, but in fact it is overflow with Myanmar colors, faces, and smells, more obviously the closer you get to the bridge that separates the two countries (see my next post from Myanmar's neighbor town Myawaddy here). But nowhere the Burmese presence is clearer than in Mae Tao Clinic, a hospital that takes care of a big number of Burmese refugees and migrant workers that has become a key landmark of the Burmese community in this province.

The lady awaits, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Morning gathering, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Chit chat, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

A warm spot, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The clinic is overpopulated and the work the doctors and nurses do is commendable despite the lack of enough material and resources, and around the clinic a whole settlement has sprout to give shelter to countless families that have been forced to leave their country or that come here as their only hope to find health care for their problems. The sights and realities can be hard at times, as one could expect in a place like this, but even in these hard conditions there is room for joy, color, happiness, specially in the eyes and legs of the kids that run endlessly throughout every alley and every corner of this place, and also in the desks of a small school, where education brings some hope where most is needed.

Hide and seek I, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Hide and seek II, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Hide and seek III, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Eyes of bliss, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Lessons, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

But Mae Sot is not only the land where Burmese refugees seek shelter this side of the border; ultimately, it is a typical Thai small town, and all recognizable Thai flavors and views can be seen and found; one of the easiest ways to realize that, after all, we are still in Thailand, is visiting any of the multiple temples that abound everywhere in this country, with its characteristic red, colorful roofs, its quiet grounds where monks of indistinct nationality meditate under saffron robes, its novices performing very diverse tasks, from the mundane to the exhausting to the festive ones.

On ropes and cables, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Patterns and colors, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The pruning I, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The pruning II, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Refreshment robes, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

However, one of the temples of Mae Sot, called Wat Mani Phraison and located right in the heart of the town, hides a secret; from the outside nobody would say there is much difference compared to any other temple in Thailand, and actually they would be right in thinking so, since the difference is not in the temple itself, but behind it: discreet and unobtrusive in one small corner of the temple grounds, surrounded by a thin stream and a small forest, there is a very particular herbal sauna. What makes this modest building so interesting is the fact that it is a wooden-driven, traditional steam sauna where locals (both men and women, separated in two adjacent rooms) can go to enjoy a relaxing time every evening. The heat of the fire is, besides, also used to clean the robes of the monks that live just meters away. The entrance is free, but a donation box invites some voluntary contribution, and everybody must bring their own towels since all offered here is the high temperature inside a small cubicle. The shower, not surprisingly, is a big vessel located outside with refreshing, cold water.

Herbal sauna and laundry I, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Herbal sauna and laundry II, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The king's anthem, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

Thailand has enjoyed an incredibly fast construction and development boom in the last decades, and that can also be seen in smaller populations like this, not just in the big cities (where, on the other hand, is much more obvious), and this has a dark consequence that is very obvious and reminds us of the dangers of unplanned growth: abandoned, unfinished buildings appear here and there, completely sank into oblivion, though some of them have found a new life by being inhabited by small communities of people who have made these skeleton buildings their home. But this reality discourages nobody, for new constructions continue appearing everywhere, and the circle continues spinning in this rather messy way.

Relocation, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

Stairs to nowhere I, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

Stairs to nowhere II, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

The road ahead, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

Cooperative work, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

At the end of the day, Mae Sot turned out to be a very relaxing, peaceful place where spending a couple of days full of little surprises and far from the noise and bustle of the city, experiencing two cultures in one and, last but not least, enjoying great food, as is customary everywhere you might travel in this country.

Night market, GM1 + Panasonic Leica 15mm

Doing time in Rong Muang

I went downtown to run some errands, but those were, most surprisingly, quickly dismissed. I had an appointment some three hours later, and since I had the camera with me, the choice was simple and obvious: a return trip from where I was but not further than an hour and a half away, so I could be back in time for my date, before sunset. 

Turn left at the blue door, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Still wheels, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The hut amidst the leaves, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

That was the first mistake of that afternoon, and a good advice for all people starting in photography: never put strict time limits to your photowalks, as that is surely going to be a call for disaster (either you end up rushing and spoiling the photo session by not seeing properly around you, or you forget about everything else and, as a consequence, whoever is having an appointment with you later on has to wait for a while...).

Safe from the sun, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The nap, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

The leak, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Sunset sweeping, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

I started walking along the always familiar and interesting Khlong Saen Saeb, but familiarity might soon lead to boredom; therefore, and after a few turns and twists, I decided to venture into unknown territory following the railtracks that I suddenly stumbled upon; the narrow alleyways that escort the canal gave way to a wide lane where all, trains and people, cohabited in harmony and balance.

Across, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

A seat with views I, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

A seat with views II, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Pensive mood, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm 

But it was very hot, and the weight of the sun started to become more and more oppressive, so, after a refreshing stroll inside the grounds of a quiet, shadowy temple, I thought it was best to return where it had all started, and wait for my appointment in a cool, air-conditioned space. All in all, it was not a long walk, but nevertheless I enjoyed those couple of hours so full of light and color.

Enclosed temple, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

Warm colors, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm

A face well travelled, GH3 + Panasonic Leica 42.5mm